Category: <span>neighborhood gem</span>

If i have a choice, i would always chose counter seating in a Japanese restaurant. The counter eating habit is a culture itself. Not only we can view the whole process of the kitchen, it also let us cultivated a personal conversation with the chefs. It doesn’t need to be a verbal conversation, it could be a mutual admiration, a look, a smile and even a facial expression when we are enjoying the dish. A chef once told me that, that his biggest reward is not an award, a star or a great review; it is a satisfying smile on a patron’s face when they are truly happily enjoying his food. That is what make his day. The motivation for him to continue, or inspired. Japanese counter eating culture does not stop at sushi. Yakitori is another one, so is ramen. We have seen it extended it’s reach, or got adapted by other culinary mastermind. Our experience at chef’s table at Brooklyn fare is an excellent example. And it was well worth the money and the hoops i jumped thru to get a reservation. I mean, how often would you have a master chef cook for you, in front of you. We might spend the same or even more money at eleven Madison park or French Laundry, but do you know Daniel Humm or Thomas Keller is really in the kitchen, pouring his heart out on a dish? To me, it is not just a meal, or a fantastic dinner, it is an experience, then turned into memory, forever remember. It is personal, it is intimate.


Restaurant Ato is one of those night that is close to heart. It is a fairly new place in the west side of Soho. Right across the street of David Burke’ kitchen. A tiny store font with complete view of the whole kitchen. No backroom, no basement. We can clearly see everything from outside. There are room for only four person at the counter, the whole restaurant sits about 20. The bright little room cannot afford anything but minimalism. Light bond wood furniture blended into the white space, it is all very zen. On the night we went, this 6 months old restaurant was very quiet. We got to have the chef all to ourself.

The young chef is a vet of Jean-Georges, Morimoto, and Masa. Needless to say his background is French/Japanese cooking. The best description I can give about Ato is, it is a modern “French-Japanese” seafood focus restaurant, with a chance of sushi Omakase. Chef Shen incorporated both French and Japanese technique in his cooking, every dish is not only eye-pleasing, also thoughtful and with impressive flavor. So why a chance of sushi? The night we went, upon sat down, we were told the chef will not be making sushi tonight. They were going to focus more on the innovative menu than traditional sushi. Jaw dropped, shocking, we were disappointed. How could this happened…. I guess it was mistake on my part that I didn’t do my research before heading to Ato. From all the pictures I saw on Instagram, I just assumed this a sushi place. I was wrong, however, I was happy to be wrong. Ato’s modern French take on Japanese dishes definitely works. Every plate is a work of art, tastefully, visually. Maybe because I was able to watch each masterpiece being constructed, not only I enjoyed each bite, I certainly appreciate the hearts and efforts that’s put into it even more. The courses were actually rather small. Fifth course in, we looked at each other and share the same thought. We were still hungry, would this Omakase actually fill us? Would we go home hungry? The answer is absolutely NOT. Yes, each plate is small, but they add up, because the pacing of each course was actually rather quick, it didn’t hit us just yet.

Warm asparagus salad, mushroom, pickle scallion

The frequently changing tasting menu is 17 courses. That’s right, 17. There were a lot of times we were hesitant when ordering the chef’s tasting menu, with a side of worrisome. We had been through quite a few long dinner, the longest record we had was 5 hours. An supposedly enjoyable night ended up being somewhat a pain. Real pain, cause my back and my bottom gave out before my main course arrive. Normally there’s no way to know how long an tasting menu would last, so we just have to roll our dice, and tough it out. Luckily that is not the case here at Ato. The 17 courses’ pacing was extremely well timed. There’s little to none wait time, just as we finished one course, after a sip of water of wine, the next one is ready. And since we are watching the performance of the kitchen, there is no dull moment.

Fire fly squid with sesame dressing

Sawara with truffle oil and honey Dijon

Cherry blossom trout with Chinese black vinegar tomato

All the dishes are seafood base, except for the warm asparagus salad, and the seared mouth-watering A5 wagu beef. Supreme quality, perfect temperature, unbelievable flavor, so good that makes my jaws went sore.
Our night at restaurant Ato is not just a dinner, it is theater. Every single piece of tableware and silverware are artfully crafted. We were told that each place is unique. The little dots on the plate represent an island in Japan. A small detail of the craftsman, but remind us where all these exquisite samples of sea are originate from. In between these artfully constructed tasty delicacies, we watched the kitchen staff carefully tender to sear a piece of fish, Chef Shen prepped and cooked and placed every masterpiece. Half way through the dinner, the house manager chatted us up and ask what is our favorite so far. It is really hard to put a favorite tag on one single dish. Every dish is a new experience, a new adventure.

Medai with lemon emulsion
Santa Barbara uni with cuttlefish yuzu sauce and soy sauce

Norway sea trout with carrot purée, funnel

Hamachi with Diet Coke jelly and quinoa

Red snapper, Japanese eggplant with crab stew

Maine uni with soy reduction and fresh wasabi

Cape cod scallop cured with sea salt and yuzu

Kumamoto Wagu A5 beef

All the ingredients are familiar, but we are still amazed by the combination and use of sauce and seasoning. For example the hamachi with diet coke jelly and quinoa is really interesting. I would be happy to have the fire fly squid plain, but the sesame dressing is like frosting on a cupcake. Then there came the cherry, Chef Shen decided that he can make sushi for us. So, at the beginning of our dinner, the kitchen had made clear that Chef was not going to make sushi that night. Perhaps our disappointment on our faces, perhaps the night was slow, perhaps chef has a change of heart, either way, it was our gain. We have sushi!!! as imaginative and innovative as it is, Chef Shen said that traditional sushi is a thing he hold close to heart. Something that needs all the focus, and attention, one rather not make if not 100%. and really we were in for a treat. Chef Shen’s sushi is as good as any great sushi chef in the city. I did felt that the sushi rice need a bit of work. The first batch was a bit mushy, but the second batch was way better. But that is no fault on the kitchen. After-all, they were not prepared to make sushi that night.

 

 

special Hokkaido Uni Bowl

Everything was exceptional. But for a restaurant this young, and have some kinks that needs to work out. There were a couple dishes we felt the sauce was a hint too much, and then there were some that was so good, that we search for a “non-exitent” spoon. The miso egg drop soup was on the salty side, and I strongly felt we could have use a better soundtrack than listening to Rockabye or Rihanna’s latest hit on Spotifly. But overall this is excellent contemporary Japanese fine dinning that could be something extraordinary. I can’t wait for it to flourish and I can’t wait to go back.
Matcha panna cotta with red bean paste

 

Ato | 28 Grand St. | April, 2017

 

 

Bessou means vacation home in Japanese. It is also a cozy hideaway restaurant in NoHo with charming white trimming french window underneath the little blue awning.
It was a very quiet night. The freezing weather might have played a part to that.
We sat all the way inside in the corner by the kitchen where the heat is blasting. Light smoothening music playing at a minimum level. It is comfortable and relaxing. There’s not much decor, very minimalist and chic modern. Light is warm and welcoming. The little water color picture on the wall resemble a little secluded beach we visited in Italy, but could have been any small fishing village in Japan. I can imagine Bessou being in one of those charming towns, nicely tucked away in a seaside inn on the quite end of the beach. Listening to summer waves, children’s laughters and wind-charm tingling in a far distance; but that is just my daydream. In fact, when we visited Bessou, it was absolutely freezing outside.


The drinks menu have various choices of wine and sake, all at a affordable price range. I chose the special of the night, a clarified Milk punch with pomegranate. The bubbly drink with sake pomegranate and fresh Brazil is extremely light and refreshing. More like a flavored water than a drink. And the lemon peel is an excellent addition. It brighten everything up. Take the refreshing sensation up to another notch.


Salad.— love the thinly sliced deep fried lotus root. The lotus root had a crispness of it’s own, after deep fried, it is like a perfect piece of potato chips but only healthier. There’s no sogginess ever.

Crispy Rice Onigiri with Maine uni, spicy tama miso, shiso, nori

Uni “toast”, this is what brought us here. Where ever there’s uni, it will be on our list, and we will eventually get there. Santa Barbara uni on top of a perfectly grills rice. A a smash of miso on plate. I feel that the miso was unnecessary. The saltiness was an attempt to balance the sweetness of uni or add flavor to the crispy rice. But neither need the help. They were perfect just as is. Really love the crunchiness of the rice. Perfectly cook and grilled inside out. Not mushy but just sticky enough to hold together. The outside layer is just crispy enough and it only breaks apart in the mouth. Perhaps the rice could be an even thinner layer.


The dinner menu only have 6 entrees but there’s a special. The night’s special is duck soba noodle, as it detaily illustrated on the lip chalk board outside the restaurant. We saw that when we were walking in. The duck noodle is surprisingly light, excellence balance. Then we had a bite of the clay pot braised fish, and were all enlightened. I never expect skate to be so silky smooth. This is excellent Japanese home cooking. Nothing oily, mostly soy base dishes, very comfortable light fare. Then all the sudden, one of us crave fried chicken, out of nowhere. The chicken karaage is wonderful, but not spectacular. However, the Japanese pumpkin (kabocha) sides was amazing. Cooked perfectly with a light graze on it to bring the sweetness out. I never like pumpkin, but i wouldn’t mind having a full bowl of this.
But truly, this is great Japanese home cooking, comfort a tried soul, especially in a freezing winter night.

Bessou | 5 Bleeker St | March, 2017


We found Han on a quiet block away from the neon light signage and crowd in Korean town. Away from limelights, in exchange for a little quiet and homey. Han give us a modern take of Korean home cooking. The long shape room is filled with shades of grey. Little wood table bouncing off fresnel lights. It is rustic, warm, and welcoming. No one yelling out “annyeinghaseyo”‘upon entering; no layers of smoke boasting from table top stove, or oily smell that smoke us into a walking Galbi; no one rushing our orders and hurrying our meal; it is laid back. It is homey. The one thing resemble of a typical Korean restaurant is the menu. The picture curated menu, like any other Korean restaurant, is extensive, covers everything from tapas, mains, pots, bbq, rice dishes and noodle.

 

no confusion here, you know exactly what you are ordering



Sowuju -grapefruit

Fire- grilled baby octopus with soy & apple-vinegar sauce
Seafood & hot pepper pancake (L); Bulgogi Hot pot: Bulgogi (center); Fire- grilled beef with onion and mesclun salad (R)
Country fried chicken with radish pickles

 

The grapefruit Sowuju is light and refreshing. I love the grilled baby octopus. My friends were a little turned- away by the wholesome of the octopus. But i love it. The chewiness was just right, with its apple vinegar soy dressing on the of the charred edges, it was just lovely. The seafood and hot pepper pancake is one of the best I have had in New York, plenty of seafood in the mix. The hot pepper was still perfectly crisp and crunchy. The tabletop stove cook bulgogi hot pot taste more like a Japanese Sukiyaki. I’d say it was a little on the sweet side. So was the grilled beef, it leans towards the sweet side. But outstanding is the K.F.C aka Korean fried chicken, it is crispy on the outside, sweet , tender and juicy on inside. No excessive oil, and just right amount of spice. It is wonderful. A little weak on the dessert menu. But no one judge a Korean restaurant by the dessert. It is not like we still have room, but we ordered one anyway.

Petite green tea cheesecake

 

Her Name is Han | 17 E 31st ST. | Nov, 2017

Fish Cheeks– My new fav Thai in town, and we don’t have to go to the outerborough.

The less than a year old restaurant is hidden on the quiet street in NOHO. It offers simple traditional Thai fare, nothing too crazy, just simple, fresh, authentic Thai dishes, that make us feel at home. Before our visit to Fish Cheeks, Sripraphai in Woodside holds a dear place in my heart. There were a few Thai places popping on and off our “go to” list, but none make us feel complete. Fish Cheeks might come close.



The long shape dinning room is gently lit by the bamboo bended lamp hanging over head. The bar, awkwardly is tucked away in the end of the dinning hall, overlooking the semi-open kitchen, which is also the “waiting” area. Thanks to the new era of online reservation, otherwise waiting for a table would have been a torture. Passing through all the happy people having a nice meal and looking at all the fresh seafood getting prepped; what a way to make hungry customers to drool even more. The bar look like a fishing boat to me. The light above are pairs of fishes caught on line, and the tiles underneath the white bar top are colorful waves or fish-scale. A couple drinks down, we might actually feel floating at sea, although the cocktail list might need some work. There are only 5 listed, but you can always spike up a Thai Ice Tea.


Aside from the gigantic “bird cage” lamps, the place feel modern. But do not judge it by it’s cover, the food is petty authentic.
The menu is only one page, consider very short comparing to other Thai places in town, which often hand over a 2lbs booklet filled with pictures. Sorry, this menu offers no pictures. And don’t expect to see pad Thai, pad see ew or drunken noodle. Not that pad Thai is not good, but that’s all most people associate with when they think of Thai food, and seriously, we need to change that. There are so much more than pad Thai in the Thai culinary world. The spice, the fresh seafood, the balance flavor of salty and sour, are what we crave for in Thai. The dishes are family style. Like most Asian cuisine, it is meant to be shared. And like many other Asian restaurants, we only wish we have the whole gang here.

We are greet by a bowl of shrimp crackers and red chiles dipping sauce. Oh!!!! I love shrimp cracker!!! The best snacks!!! Go easy on the chiles sauce, spread it out. As they might choke you to tears… HOT!!!



There is also a special menu. A little white broad hanging on the side, declaring “no Pad Thai zone”. Only a couple items on special. We order the Prik Pao (strip Loin) off the special menu. The grill pork came with a bed of mint and cilantro in a pool of sauce. It is sweet and spicy. I wish the grill strip loin would have the same charred as Kor Moo Yang.


Then we moved on to the Shrimp in 3 crabs sauce (raw shrimp with lime juice, garlic, bird’s eye chili & mint). Fresh is the keyword here. The heat level is rather mild. But the lime brighten my palette. And those shrimps are sweet!!! #YUM
I love carb, and I love coconut. I should love coconut crab curry. The plating of it is not very consistent, I did a quick search on Instagram. Some pictures has more crab than the others. Some has scallions on it, with a little swirl of coconut milk, but ours didn’t. On this night we were there, it was just a pool of yellow sauce. It still tastes great, may be need a more heat.



We also have the steam blue fish with Thai herbs with a side of watercress. The blue fish is serve on a fish sharpe pot with a little stove fire under to continue the bubbling. It disappointed me a little as it is a filet with no skin… i love steam fish, and skin is essential. It traps the fat and oil of the fish and make the fish even more silky. Especially for this version, as it continue the cooking with the bubbling broth, over time, the fish easily become overcooked. I actually prefer it doesn’t come with the hot plate. The broth is a great mixture of nam jim sauce, rather mild, and there are fresh bird’s-eye chiles sprinkled over the top. And be mindful of those little chiles, the carry great punches. One of us had a big bite, and immediately started tearing up. Luckily, Thai ice tea was there to rescue.
It is not mind blowing, just genuinely great Thai home cooking. We would definitely come back, and also wish there was mango sticky rice to end the night.

Fish Cheeks | 55 Bond St | December, 2017