Last updated on February 13, 2016
On a late October evening, we drove up to the Pocantico Hills to finally get a taste of the much praised Blue Hill. The trip wasn’t as long as we thought it would be. After only 20 minutes, skyscrapers are no longer seen in the rear mirror. It surprises me that a working farm is actually so close to the city. The sun had already set as we drove up to the farm house, and the darkness added a mysterious layer to the barn. Old, rustic on the outside, yet contemporary and elegant on the inside. Thru a little wooden door is a bar, then a waiting room with a fireplace, and it lead to a big, bright, high-ceilinged dining room. Dark wood beam ceiling, hard wood floor, with a long wood commune table in the middle displaying the season’s harvest, Blue Hill had transformed this barn to a formal dining room. Service was warm and attentive, tux wearing waiters usually tip-toeing and dance around the table smoothly. But once in a while an army of them would show up with plates in their hands, and in perfect synchronization, elegantly place the dishes in front of you, then disappear until next time. Everything is so perfect, in-sync, and beautifully orchestrated; it is totally up to the White house standard.
Dishes are very contemporary American, barely seasoned and artfully presented. I was skeptical about this farm to table concept, it sounds to me that there will be a lot of vegetables, and I don’t like vegetables much. I don’t normally order vegetables at restaurants. It usually cost a lot more than it should be and I can easily make the same at home. But then, I have never ever tasted vegetables like this. So fresh, so vibrant, such sweet of freshness, and vegetables finally got their justice. Bite after bite, food was full of surprise, even a simple radish tasted like I have never know radish before. The broccoli rabe cube had completely won me over. It was softer than a marshmallow with crushed, fried garlic. Before I fall back from heaven, there comes the Berkshire pork liver pate with chocolate crepes. Who would have thought liver with chocolate, but it is the perfect combination. Even better than foie gras with figs or apple or cranberry, like they are made for each other. Blue Hill was also playful with their Stonebarns “V9”. If only I could get a tray of them to bring home.
Half way thru the dinner, we were lead to another dining room for a “special” course. The area, which I believe was a corridor between what was two farm house, but now is a sun room with a long dining table. In the corner was another table with a display of root vegetables, on the other side was a prosciutto hanging to age. On the table, the were jars of pickled vegetables, and a large ostrich in a wooden bowl. Our course in this special room was bread and butter and an egg dish. There were 3 kinds of butter: regular butter, “sunshine” butter from a dairy cow name sunshine, and pig lardo; and I love “sunshine”. There were many other dishes that I fell in love with at Stone barnes, but to truly appreciate it, one would have to experience it oneself. It surely made me appreciate food and vegetables and the people who grow them like never before. Thank you Blue Hill for giving us a magical evening. (Oct, 2014)
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